When you think of Japan, what are the first foods you think of? Sushi? Ramen? Wagyu?
For me, I think dream of Tonkatsu. There is simply no part of Japanese cuisine that is more misrepresented worldwide; no Japanese dish that experiences a wider chasm between international renditions and what Tonkatsu shokunin create locally. The gap between the Tonkatsu in Japan and the rest of the world, is so big that not only are they in different leagues – they are barely playing the same sport.
You can get great sushi in London, good Ramen in New York and import Japanese Wagyu to almost any major city. Truly great Tonkatsu though? You’ll find that only in the land of the rising sun.
It’ll be remiss not to include atleast one Tonkatsu restaurant on any Japan itinerary. Here are the best Tonkatsus in Tokyo to help guide you.
For more personalised advice, customised food itineraries and to unlock your best culinary adventure, please contact me.
Table of Contents
The Best Tonkatsu Restaurant in Tokyo
Narikura (成蔵) – The Pinnacle Tonkatsu
Maruyama Kippei (吉平) – The Maillard Tonkatsu
Tonkatsu Keita (とんかつ けい太) – The Up and Coming Tonkatsu
Tonta (とん太) – The Everyday Splurge Tonkatsu
Tonkatsu Banbu/Bamboo (とんかつ ばんぶー) – The Intimate Tonkatsu
Taiyou (もち豚とんかつ たいよう) – The Underdog Tonkatsu
Chawanbu (車力門 ちゃわんぶ) – The Hire Kaiseki Tonkatsu
Agezuki (あげづき) – The Aged Tonkatsu
Maruichi (丸一) – The Strong Side Game Tonkatsu
Nomotoya (のもと家) – The Sushi Lovers Tonkatsu
Marugo (丸五) – The Electronics Tonkatsu
Katsukami (銀座かつかみ) – The Degustation/Nose to Tail Tonkatsu
Hinata (とんかつひなた) – The Fancy Tonkatsu
Aoki (とんかつ檍 蒲田店) – The Salt Connoisseur Tonkatsu
Enraku (とんかつ燕楽) – The Neighbourhood Tonkatsu
Ponta Honke (ぽん多本家) – The Seafood Tonkatsu
Katsu Puripo/Pretty Pork Factory (Katsuプリポー) – The Can Be Great But Inconsistent Tonkatsu
Butagumi (豚組) – The Exotic Breeds Tonkatsu
Tonki (とんかつ とんき 目黒本店) – The Production Line Tonkatsu
The Best Tonkatsu Restaurant in the World
Manger (とんかつ マンジェ) – The Not Worth The Wait Tonkatsu (Osaka)
Tonkatsu Asakura (とんかつあさくら) – The Miso Tonkatsu (Nagoya)
Katsuretsu Tei Shinshigai Honten (勝烈亭 新市街本店) – The Family Tonkatsu (Kumamoto)
Tonkatsu Kawakyu (とんかつ川久) – The “When in Rome” Tonkatsu (Kagoshima)
Juan Bowl – The Deconstructed Katsudon (Sydney)
Scoreboard
Last updated – 24/12/22
The Best Tonkatsu in Tokyo (and the World) Summary
The Best Tonkatsu in Tokyo (and the World) Detail
Tonkatsu Restaurants in Tokyo
Note since the original publication of this guide, the number of good tonkatsu restaurants I have visited has vastly grown. To keep this guide reasonable in length, only noteworthy tonkatsus will get a write up. However, the ratings above will always be up to date with all my tonkatsu adventures. To follow my latest tonkatsu journey and other tonkatsu photos, follow my Instagram.
Narikura (成蔵) – The Pinnacle Tonkatsu
Hardly needs any introduction. Consistently “Japan’s #1 Tonkatsu Restaurant” on Tabelog, and the over hour long line reflects this. Narikura is the pinnacle of what can be achieved with the marriage of pork, breadcrumbs and oil. Whether ancillaries are worth tolerating – well, that’s for you to choose.
I’ve written extensively about Narikura, and how to decipher the menu before so below are just the cliff notes for comparison purposes. You can read my full Narikura review here.
Signature Dish – Course menu that allows you to choose exactly the cut you would like.
Meat – 10/10
- Wagyu of porks. If there was better pork in Japan, it’ll likely already be at Narikura.
- Low temperature frying results in an extra juicy tonkatsu.
- I have not been anywhere that cooks their tonkatsu as consistently perfectly as Narikura
Batter – 9.5/10
- One of the best tonkatsu batters.
- Narikura’s batter’s strength is in its large soft panko flakes. It’s simply impossible soft and melts away in your mouth.
- The best way to describe the difference is normal panko crumbs is the texture of powdered ice, while Narikura’s panko flakes is the texture of fresh snow flakes.
- The large soft flakes is particularly suitable to Narikura’s thicker pork tonkatsu, which is what they are famous for though.
- A drawback of the bigger panko flakes is that the batter will be marginally more oily, though not to the point where it deters from the tonkatsu itself.
- The only weakness is that the layer between the pork and the panko flakes is relatively thick and start to taste pasty if tonkatsu is left too long. However, I suspect this is because the egg and flour layer needs to be thicker to support the larger panko flake.
Sides – 1.5/3
- Narikura’s side game is somewhat disproportionate to their tonkatsu. Not that the sides are bad, but it is not on the same level as their tonkatsu.
- As part of the course meal you will get a small starter and dessert
- Tonjiru is particularly disproportionately bad though.
Condiments – 1.5/2
- Tonkatsu sauce, premium sesame oil and salt.
- Standard, nothing special here, which is the best approach given the quality of meat.
Total score – 22/25
Update (11/7/2019) – There are now two Narikuras.
| Restaurant | Chef | Location | Access | Budget |
| New Narikura | Seizo Mitani (Original Chef) | Minami-Asagaya | Reservation Only | ￥5,000 |
| Original Narikura | Apprentice | Takadanobaba | Ticket Queue System | ￥2,000 |
Scores will be updated for both Narikuras once I visit the new Narikura. The Narikura run by the apprentice is still very good but may lack consistency. Tonta may be a better bet for now (or just do both!)
Maruyama Kippei (吉平) – The Maillard Tonkatsu
Maruyama Kippei is my second favourite tonkatsu in Tokyo, and my favourite high temperature fry tonkatsu. High temp fry tonkatsu are characterisedy by a darker and crunchier exterior giving the tonkatsu as nuttier and Maillard-eque flavour from the darkened crust.
Total score – 22/25
Tonkatsu Keita (とんかつ けい太) – The Up and Coming Tonkatsu
Having opened in 2020, after just one year, many already considered Tonkatsu Keita to be one of the best tonkatsus in Tokyo. I call them The Up and Coming Tonkatsu because of any restaurant, this one is the most likely to ever got on the same level as Narikura.
I actually think the cooking is slightly better at Tonkatsu Keita (look how perfectly cooked this is). Where it falls behind Narikura is the pork quality (not that it’s bad, it’s just that Narikura really has the best pork In Japan). Tonkatsu Keita’s pork comes from their families own farms.
Contrary to popular belief, they don’t use both low and high temp fry. One panko just has a higher sugar content as it works better with Nanshu Natural Pork (resulting in a darker crust), while the other has low sugar as it works better with Roppaku-Kurobuta pork (resulting in a snow white crust).
I also like that Tonkatsu Keita allow reservations for dinner so you don’t have to line up.
Total score – 22/25
Tonta (とん太) – The Everyday Splurge Tonkatsu
You know you have a great tonkatsu when you can compete with arguably the best tonkatsu in Japan on its home turf. While the lines aren’t as crazy as Narikura, you will almost definitely still have to wait.
As for the question of where to go if one finds themselves in the suburb of Takadanobaba? As a wise little Mexican girl once said – “Why not both?”. Here’s why (or read my full Tonta review here).
Signature Dish – Toku (Special) Loin Tonkatsu (特ロースかつ)
Meat – 9/10
- Tonta uses low temperature frying, resulting in a light and juicy tonkatsu.
- Tonta’s pork loin is leaner than most, but makes up for it as the meat itself is more tender and has more natural pork taste.
- At the price point, Tonta’s pork is very good. Where it loses out is when you compare it to the more premium breeds of Narikura.
Batter – 9.5/10
- Tonta’s panko batter was ethereally light, the best I’ve ever had. It almost had the lightness of a good tempura batter.
- While both the batter at Tonta and Narikura melts in your mouth, Tonta’s batter was thinner with visibly less panko shards sticking out.
- The batter also stuck to the pork better, due to the fact that it’s a thinner batter.
Sides – 2.5/3
- One of the best set of sides of any tonkatsu restaurant.
- Rice was perfectly cooked and sweet.
- For the miso soup, you can choose from pork and vegetables, freshwater clams, and wakame.
Condiments – 1/2
- Tonkatsu sauce and salt. Tomato sauce also provided (not that I think you should use it).
- Sesame seeds provided if you want to grind them yourself.
Total score – 22/25
Tonkatsu Banbu/Bamboo (とんかつ ばんぶー) – The Intimate Tonkatsu
I call Banbu The Intimate Tonkatsu because it is run soley by one chef, without assistants. On top of the fact that it’s relatively unknown, it means that chances are you will be one of few people dining at Banbu, making it one of the most intimate tonkatus experiences you can get.
But don’t let the lack of crowds worry you. I think Banbu has the best wait to tonkatsu ratio of any tonkatsu restaurant in Japan.
It is a bit further out, but you make it all back in value. The most expensive cut is ¥2,400. Stylistically, it’s quite similar to Tonta – thin and light coating with a medium panko size. The batter is a bit crunchier at Banbu though.
My favourite part of Banbu is the separation of the Belly Rib. Not only is it super delicious, but frying it separately allows 2 separate temperatures on the Belly Rib and the rest of the Loin (generally you want to cook the Belly Rib to a higher temp to render the fat).
Banbu is also a one-man show which I always have a soft spot for. No line at all when I went for dinner. Bonus points Potato Salad (even if it was runny). Cabbage dressing is one of my favourite.
Total score – 21.5/25
Taiyou (もち豚とんかつ たいよう) – The Underdog Tonkatsu
Ahhh the seemingly perennial underdog. Despite being featured in Michelin’s Bib Gourmand for 3 consecutive years (since 2015), and a great Tabelog score, Mochibuta Tonkatsu Taiyou is still (relatively) undiscovered.
As an added bonus, you can make reservations for lunch on weekdays, literally making the tonkatsu to wait ratio infinity!
Signature Dish – Premium Pork Loin Katsu Set (上ロースカツ定食)
Meat – 8.5/10
- Mochi-Buta breed pork.
- While the pork here isn’t the highest quality (flavour and marbling), my god can this man cook the perfect loin tonkatsu. I shudder to think what he could do a more marbled piece of pork.
- The tonkatsu itself looks unassuming, but if you visually inspect the meat, it has the most even cooking gradient of any tonkatsu and looks the juiciest.
- Smaller fat cap than others (I prefer a bigger fat cap), but the juiciness of the meat itself meant a smaller fat cap would work better overall.
Batter – 9/10
- Almost your standard tonkatsu batter, both in colour and texture. If you bought a tonkatsu sampuru (food replica) it would basically look like this.
- However the taste is much lighter than it looks.
- It’s not as light as Tonta or Narikura, but it doesn’t leave as heavy an aftertaste as some of the others.
Sides – 2/3
- Standard sides including rice, pickles, cabbage and tonjiru.
- Tonjiru has a lighter and cleaner flavour than most others. Suits the Taiyou’s tonkatsu style.
Condiments – 1.5/2
- Standard sauces with the addition of soy sauce and Chinese-style dressing (literally). It taste like a sweet soy sauce with the addition of sesame and slight ginger notes.
Total score – 21/25
Sharikimon Chawanbu (車力門 ちゃわんぶ) – The Hire Kaiseki Tonkatsu
Chawanbu is called The Hire Kaiseki Tonkatsu because Chawanbu was formally a kappo kaiseki restaurant before its Tonkatsu transformation. Buzawa-san, the chef and owner, joined Kurogi (a famous kaiseki restaurant) where he cooks for dinner, converting his original restaurant to serve Tonkatsu in the day. Buzawa-san’s kaiseki routes can be tasted throughout the meal.
The miso soup is freshly made, dissolving miso for each customer on order. It is the best miso soup I’ve had at a tonkatsu restaurant, clearly flexing its Kaiseki roots. The organic curry with egg yolk offered halfway through your tonkatsu is super balanced.
The Hire part of the name is due to the fact that Chawanbu specialises in Hire (Fillet), which is significantly better than how they cook the Rosu (Loin).
Total score – 20.5/25
Maruichi (丸一) – The Strong Side Game Tonkatsu
Known as one of the tonkatsu institutions in Tokyo, Masaru Yamagawa-san learned the art of tonkatsu from his father who started Maruichi almost fifty years ago. Over the decades, his father trained disciples who have gone on to set up their own Maru-named tonkatsu restaurants across Tokyo, not unlike the relationship between between a sushi master and his disciples.
There’s no doubt Tokyo’s tonkatsu scene will be very different without Maruichi.
Signature Dish – Toku-jo (Special) Premium Loin Katsu Set (特上ロースかつ定食)
Meat – 8.5/10
- Unlike most other tonkatsu restaurants on this list (the other being Aoki), Maruichi uses a high temperature fry for a shorter period of time. This means the pork is not cooked as evenly (ie drier), but there are benefits to the batter.
- The balance of fat and meat was better than most.
Batter – 8.5/10
- High temperature fry (see above) results in a darker and crunchier exterior giving the tonkatsu as nuttier and Maillard-esque flavour from the darkened crust.
- The downside to this is that the crust can overpower the flavour of the pork. Ultimately this trade off is down to personal preference.
Sides – 2.5/3
- The attention to detail is most evident in the sides.
- Rice is cooked in an old fashioned kama over a gas flame. The rice is one of the best of the tonkatsu restaurants I’ve tasted.
- Tonjiru is the best I’ve had so far. Not only is the flavour rich and deep but the vegetables in the soup are cooked separately to ensure they are the perfect texture, before being added back in the soup.
- Not only is the pork specially sourced from specific prefectures but so are the vegetables; carrots are grown in Chiba, and the sweet cabbages are harvested in the Miura peninsula where the spring cabbages are renowned.
Condiments – 1/2
- Standard but good sauces.
Total score – 20.5/25
Nomotoya (のもと家) – The Sushi Lover’s Tonkatsu
Nomotoya is the Sushi lover’s Tonkatsu because they are the best Tonkatsu restaurant that serve their pork with Soy Sauce and Wasabi.
Total score – 20.5/25
Marugo (丸五) – The Electronics Tonkatsu
A popular tonkatsu restaurant in Akihabara, means Marugo a common choice for tourists in the area shopping for electronics or anime/manga.
Owner and chef Takayoshi Takeuchi has been refining the art of tonkatsu for over 40 years, having trained at the famous Suidobashi restaurant Katsukichi. Of all the tonkatsu places on this list, Marugo has far and away the best and friendliest service (though unfortunately service will not be taken into account in this review). This also mean it’s the most English-friendly tonkatsu restaurant, with English menus and very accomodating staff.
Signature Dish – Premium Breaded Pork Medallion Cutlet (特ヒレかつ). Note while the fillet is Marugo’s speciality, for the consistency of this review, we will be comparing the loin katsu (特ロースかつ)
Meat – 8/10
- Hiraboku-Sangenton pork from Hirada Farm in Yamagata. This crossbreed pig is a mix of Yorkshire, Landrace, and Duroc hogs.
- While the low temperature frying ensured the tonkatsu was juicy, it wasn’t the juiciest nor tenderest I’ve had.
- Flavour was robust, with the meat to fat on the leaner side.
- Just a minor annoyance, Marugo cuts their tonkatsu into much bigger pieces than other restaurants.
Batter – 8.5/10
- Batter was light and crispy, thicker than most but works well with the thicker cutlet.
- However the larger pieces made the batter feel more overwhelming than it actually was.
Sides – 2.5/3
- I’m a simple man. I see Rakkyo Zuke, I upvote.
- Rice was more gluey than I would have liked.
- Salad comes with lettuce and tomato on top of the usual cabbage.
Condiments/Sauce – 1.5/2
- Standard sauces here but they also have a delicious housemade special salad dressing.
Total score – 20.5/25
Hinata (とんかつひなた) – The Fancy Tonkatsu
Hinata is the Fancy Tonkatsu as they have a myriad of high end condiments such as premium extra virgin olive oil and truffle salt.
Total score – 20/25
Aoki (とんかつ檍 蒲田店) – The Salt Connoisseur Tonkatsu
Aoki is very well known in Tokyo, and has three branches across Tokyo (Kamata, Hamamatsucho and Ginza). Despite its expansion, I’ve been quality has not waivered, something that only the Japanese seem to be able to pull off.
For the purpose of this review, I went to the OG in Kamata.
Signature – Rib Loin Katsu Set (リブロースかつ定食) or Toku-jo (Special) Premium Loin Katsu Set (特上ロースかつ定食)
Meat – 8/10
- Hayashi SPF (Specific Pathogen-Free) pigs from Chiba Prefecture, which are fed grains and raised without antibiotics.
- This is the same breed that Maruyama Kippei uses.
- Unlike most other tonkatsu restaurants on this list (the other being Maruichi), Aoki uses a high temperature fry for a shorter period of time. This means the pork is not cooked as evenly (ie drier), but there are benefits to the batter.
- High temperature frying also means the tonkatsu is cooked marginally rarer than low temperature frying to maintain the same level of juiciness. While this may not be for everyone, food safety wise it is completely safe as the produce quality in Japan is impeccable.
Batter – 8/10
- High temperature frying (see above) results in a darker and crunchier exterior giving the tonkatsu as nuttier and Maillard-eque flavour from the darkened crust.
- The downside to this is that the crust can overpower the flavour of the pork. Ultimately this trade off is down to personal preference.
Sides – 2/3
- Standard sides including rice, pickles, cabbage and tonjiru. No standouts, but no flaws either.
Condiments/Sauce – 2/2
- While some tonkatsu restaurants focus on a large variety of pork breeds, Aoki is known for their large variety of salts from around the world.
- Some of the exotics salts featured include salt from Pakistan, Kiribati Islands, Mongolia and Bolivia. I liked the Bolivian salt the most.
Total score – 20/25
Enraku (とんかつ燕楽) – The Neighbourhood Tonkatsu
Enraku is owned by Mitani-san’s (from Narikura) Uncle, which is where Mitani-san learnt the fundamentals of tonkatsu.
Total score – 20/25
Ponta Honke (ぽん多本家) – The Seafood Tonkatsu
Ponta Honke is called The Seafood Tonkatsu because they have literally the best seafood katsu in Japan, offering sushiya-quality prawn, anago, oysters and squid.
Their pork tonkatsu however is more catered towards the elderly. They cut the fat cap off the normal loin, so you get the flavour of the loin while still keeping it a light meal. If this appeals to you, Ponta Honke is right up your alley. Just remember to get some seafood katsu while you’re there!
Total score – 19.5/25
Katsu Puripo/Pretty Pork Factory (Katsuプリポー) – The Can Be Great But Inconsistent Tonkatsu
Pretty Pork Factory, a Pork restaurant, by night but Katsu Puripo by day. They offer a wide variety of different Pork breeds, with the menu reflecting what is available each day. There are descriptions of each breed with a plot diagram with each of the breed’s characteristics (just use Google Translate).
They use a high temp fry with a medium size panko – the breading is almost closer to a Korean style Donkkaseu (Pork Cutlet) than a Japanese Tonkatsu.
Rice is cooked to order and is the best rice I’ve had at any Tonkatsu restaurant – though obviously not Kaiseki level. They use Milky Queen variety of rice named after its sparkling white appearance Milky Queen is a mutation of Koshihikari rice with low amylose (around 10%), about half that of other I rice. Low amylose rices are softer, moister and stickier (glutinous rice has almost no amylose, while Koshihikari has around 20%). It is mostly used in Bentos and Onigiris because it does not become hard even when cold. After your Tonkatsu, you’re given some dashi to finish with your rice. While the dashi itself was pretty basic, it is a nice touch to help you finish any leftover rice.
They have possibly the largest selection of sauces and condiments of any tonkatsu restaurant, most of which was very good.
Everything was great – rice, sauces, condiments. Everything except the tonkatsu.
While the Pork quality was good, it was completely ruined by the cooking skill. As you can see from the photos, the high temp fry resulted in an extreme overcook on the edges (generally high temp Tonkatsu tends to be even more pink in the centre, so the edge is just cooked). The most disappointing of all is the breading itself – not attached to the pork at all and completely soggy on the bottom (as you can see from the left side crust).
All said and done, I would be willing to try Katsu Puripo again only because I’ve had friends who had good experiences (and looking at photos, my experience may be an outlier). While I normally hate inconsistency, I believe the potential is there for Tonkatsu greatness. For now though, I cannot recommend.
Total score – 18/25
Butagumi (豚組) – The Exotic Breeds Tonkatsu
Butagumi, a polarising tonkatsu restaurant if there ever was a was one. Probably the only tonkatsu restaurant in Japan that is more well known by Westerners than locals. As a result, there was no line (half the restaurant was empty), and all the diners were western.
Reservations (couple of weeks in advance recommended)
Signature Dish – Any one of their premium breed tonkatsus (such as Iberico, Golden Boar, Nakijin-agoo, Imobuta and Mangalitsa).
Meat – 6/10
- While not everything is available, Butagumi lists over 50 different pork breeds on their menu.
- If you can’t decide, order a pork flight called “Butagumi-zen”, has small portions of 5 different breeds of pork.
- They also offer belly (fattier with a bit more chew) on top of the regular loin or fillet choice.
- While I would have loved to review the Iberico or the Mangalitsa, unfortunately it was not available. Note that the price points of these would have been significantly higher than all the other tonkatsus in this review.
- For the purposes of this review, I’ll be speaking specifically about Hakkin Ton from Iwate Prefecture, the most premium cut available at the time (though having had various cuts of the Himuro Buta and Nattoku Ton, the differences were virtually indistinguishable).
- Meat was severely overcooked to the point where it had lost any sense of character.
- Good balance of fat and meat.
Batter – 6/10
- Batter was also closer to crunchy than crispy.
- It was also patchy in places, without even coverage of panko crumbs. This is obvious from the photos.
- Overall, it left an unpleasant heavy oily aftertaste.
Sides – 2/3
- Standard sides provided (rice, cabbage, soup, pickles) with no stand outs.
- Strictly speaking, though tomato is not part of the side game for a tonkatsu set, the tomato here is downright delicious. Possibly the best thing on the menu.
Condiments/Sauce – 1.5/2
- Admittedly, the sauces here were pretty good. Usual homemade tonkatsu sauce, salt and mustard, but with the addition of homemade ponzu sauce for the cabbage.
Disclaimer – I’ve heard of a lot of mixed experiences at Butagumi and have been told to only go if “old lady is there”. If I return, I’ll update my review accordingly. But frankly, there are too many other great tonkatsu restaurants in Tokyo.
Total score – 15.5/25
Tonki (とんかつ とんき 目黒本店) – The Production Line Tonkatsu
Tonki is an institution that has been doing the exact same thing since 1939. More impressive is the queueing system that replaces a line with an old man who, against all odds, remembers who came in first and who ordered what (even if the line is over an hour long). Most impressive however, is the efficiency and scale of the tonkatsu production process. Watching the kitchen from the counter is an experience in itself.
The tonkatsu though…that’s another story.
Signature Dish – Rosu Katsu Teishoku (Pork Loin Cutlet with Rice, Soup & Pickles)
Meat – 4.5/10
- No cooking slightly under here, simply robust well-done pork.
- Pork is still surprisingly juicy given the way it’s cooked, but still much drier than other tonkatsu restaurants.
- Most of the fat has been trimmed off, leaving the loin to be mostly meat.
Batter – 4/10
- Egg and flour is applied evenly to the pork three times in alternating layers.
- This results in a relatively thick exterior, despite using finely ground panko.
- The finely ground panko actually makes the exterior similar to a western style schnitzel, losing the lightness of regular panko exteriors.
Sides – 1/3
- Standard sides provided (rice, cabbage, soup, pickles) with no stand outs.
- Rice was a bit too soft, making it hard to taste the individual rice grains.
Condiments/Sauce – 0.5/2
- Some sauce comes pre-applied on the tonkatsu, making it lose whatever crunch it had left.
- Dollop of mustard supplied on the plate.
Total score – 10/25
Tonkatsu Restaurants around the World
Manger (とんかつ マンジェ) – The Not Worth The Wait Tonkatsu
One of the most famous Tonkatsu restaurants in Japan. Some people consider it the “Narikura of Osaka”, and is just as difficult to get in but in its own unique way.
For me, it feels like its reputation and rating is purely based on novelty. The novelty of the double ticket queuing system (which effectively kills half your day). The novelty of truffle salt and Manger’s original sauce. The novelty of “eccentric tonkatsu” which include but not limited to frying things like foie gras, gorgonzola cheese and yuzu.
As for the fundamentals and the tonkatsu itself, it’s pretty standard and even subpar in certain cases –
- Cabbage was ice cold, as if pre-cut and left in the fridge until it was needed.
- Using an industrial fryer rather than a copper pot. I haven’t seen a single Tonkatsu shokunin who doesn’t use a copper pot to precisely control temperature using skill.
- Pounding the pork with a meat mallet. I agree with this technique to tenderise the meat when you’re using low quality meat, but you don’t need to do this for Tokyo X and Iberico.
- Batter was super basic. There was nothing special about it, could literally have been recreated at home
Categorically not worth. It’s the best that Osakans have got, but it’s got nothing on the top shops in Tokyo.
TL;DR – Manger reputation rides purely on gimmicks and high quality pork. Skill and execution lets it down. No need to visit, you’re not missing out on anything if you never come.
Total score – 20.5/25
Tonkatsu Asakura (とんかつあさくら) – The Miso Tonkatsu
Tonkatsu Asakura is one of the best Nagoya-style Tonkatsu restaurants (the other one being Miharu). Nagoya-style Tonkatsu tends to have a thin batter with fine panko crumbs (similar panko to Kushikatsu). This is important as it works well with the other aspect of Nagoya-style Tonkatsu – the dark Hatcho Miso sauce.
As for the Tonkatsu itself, the best way to describe it is that it’s what Tonki should be but isn’t. It’s impossibly tender – almost as if they used a meat tenderiser. Some may be put off by the unnatural tender texture.
While I like the Miso sauce, I’m not a fan of the fine panko crumb, so this is the end of my Nagoya-style Tonkatsu journey. However, if you haven’t tried it before, I would recommend trying it atleast once.
Total score – 20.5/25
Katsuretsu Tei Shinshigai Honten (勝烈亭 新市街本店) – The Family Tonkatsu (Kumamoto)
Constantly rated among the top 10 tonkatsu restaurants in Japan, Katsure Tei is based in the town of everyone’s favourite Japanese bear. Established in 1975, it’s also one of Kumamoto’s highest rated restaurants, so it was inevitable that I would come here on my Kyushu trip.
Was this a case of a high ranking due to the inflated reviews by locals, or does it truly stand on the same level as the best in Tokyo?
Narrator: It did not.
Signature Dish – Specialty Kagoshima 6 White Black Pork (超特選 鹿児島県産 六白黒豚)
Meat – 7/10
- Only local Kagoshima Kurobuta pigs raised in contracted farms are used.
- Meat had a more robust flavour and was less marbled than others.
- I must have gotten an end piece on the day, because the meat lacked a proper fat cap and meat/fat layering was out of proportion.
Batter – 8/10
- The best way to describe the batter is standard batter, executed well.
- There was nothing distinctive or memorable about the batter, but it ticked all the boxes of a good (but not great) batter – crisp, small-medium crumb size, didn’t fall off the meat.
- High temperature frying means a stronger tasting batter.
Sides – 1.5/3
- Standard sides provided (rice, cabbage, soup, pickles) with no stand outs.
- Rice was relatively bland.
Condiments/Sauce – 1.5/2
- Tonkatsu sauce, salt and Japanese dark soy sauce.
- Sesame seeds provided if you want to grind them yourself.
Total score – 18/25
Tonkatsu Kawakyu (とんかつ川久) – The “When in Rome” Tonkatsu (Kagoshima)
Tonkatsu Kawakyu is the highest rated, and one of the most popular tonkatsu restaurants in Kagoshima and should be representative of what Kagoshima tonkatsu is like. Lines can get over 30 minutes long during peak periods.
Signature Dish – Top Black Pork Loin Cutlet 250g (上黒豚ロースカツ250g)
Meat – 7.5/10
- Tonkatsu had a good balance of fat and meat, but not enough marbling in the meat section made it relatively chewy.
- Fat was beautifully sweet, but meat lacked the flavour of other tonkatsus in this review.
Batter – 6.5/10
- A rather impactless batter. Crisp enough, but not enough to make it good. Batter fell away from the pork too easily.
- Crumb is quite fine, making it similar to a home-style tonkatsu.
- Uneven covering of panko crumbs.
Sides – 1/3
- Standard sides provided (rice, cabbage, soup, pickles) with no stand outs.
- Rice was relatively bland.
- Miso soup provided instead of tonjiru.
- Seaweed tsukemono was delicious.
Condiments/Sauce – 1/2
- Tonkatsu sauce, salt, Japanese dark soy sauce and yuzu pepper sauce provided.
- There was no salad dressing sauce, so eating the cabbage salad itself was quite bland.
Total score – 16/25
Juan Bowl – The Deconstructed Katsudon (Sydney)
Yep, this is the best tonkatsu in Sydney.
It is a somewhat shallow victory though as Juan Bowl largely wins this title by default; there is simply no other competition*.
For a country that loves their fried chicken, I’ve always wondered why giving porcine the fry treatment was never met with the same respect. But that rant is for another day. How does Sydney’s best stack up against Japan?
Signature Dish – Tonkatsu Don (Rice with Onion, 2 hour slow-cooked Bungalow Sweet Pork Tonkatsu, Free Range Scrambled Eggs, House Apple Mustard Mayo, Roasted Tomatoes, Red Cabbage, Miso Sesame Sauce)
Meat – 7.5/10
- Bangalow Sweet Pork, which is good but not the best pork in Australia. I would love to one day see a Premium Kurobuta Pork Tonkatsu option, but I doubt Australia’s Tonkatsu scene will ever progress that far.
- The pork was cooked for 2 hours before being breaded and fried. I suspect this decision was dictated by prep, the small kitchen and the expectation of diners getting their food quickly.
- The pork is also cooked to well done (Australians will freak if their pork is medium or medium rare).
- For both the reasons above, the pork is juicy enough, but not as juicy as it could be.
Batter – 7/10
- Much better than everything else in Sydney, a bit above average compared to Japan.
- Batter was crisp and relatively light, with medium size flake.
- The problem with most panko battered food in Sydney is that the panko crumbs are so fine, that you may as well use normal breadcrumbs. Juan Bowl is one of the few places that doesn’t have this problem.
Sides – 2.5/3
- While this isn’t technically a teishoku tonkatsu set, the purpose of including Juan Bowl in this review was to establish a comparative baseline of Sydney vs Japan.
- This is actually closer to a katsudon since it includes eggs. I love katsudon for the combination of egg, pork and panko batter than absorbs all sweetness of the soy and onions. What I don’t like is how quickly the whole thing becomes a soggy mess.
- The way Juan Bowl constructs the katsudon is rather genius. By scrambling an egg with butter, adding in a separate onion soy dashi sauce and serving the tonkatsu on the side, you get all the flavour and comfort of katsudon without the sog nor the mess.
- Koshihikari rice was cooked well (or 12 grain rice if you choose to upgrade). I recommend you don’t.
- Red cabbage serve instead of the usual green. Cabbage is not as sweet as it is in Japan.
- Roasted tomatoes are a welcome sight.
Condiments/Sauce – 0.5/2
- House made apple mustard mayo and miso sesame sauce provided.
- Sauces themselves were clever and well executed, but I would have liked some original tonkatsu sauce.
Total score – 17.5/25
*Note – I’ve only reviewed Juan Bowl because it’s really the only tonkatsu worthy of actually being called a tonkatsu. Yayoi, Miso, Chidori Japanese Bistro, Cafe Oratnek and Sando Bar (among others) all serve tonkatsus that are mere shadows of what they should be and what they are like in Japan.
Wishlist
- Katsudon Takatsu (Akita)
- Epais (Osaka)
Let me know in the comments if you have any recommendations or know of tonkatsu restaurants that you want me to hit up!
Conclusion
So there we have it, the best Tonkatsu in Tokyo. You’re spoilt for choice really – any Tonkatsu scoring over 20 is good in my books, something I would be happy to eat again and again.
But the most important takeaway? There is surprising amount of Tonkatsu styles – low/high heat cooking, pork breed selection, condiments/sauces, casual/formal – all of which, while seeming subtle, significantly augment your Tonkatsu experience.
What all this means for you is that whatever mood you’re in, chances are, there’s a piece of porcine perfection waiting for you. Now go out there and get it.
So fellow foodies, what’s your favourite Tonkatsu restaurant in the world?
The Best Tonkatsu Methodology
Visits (ordering the best)
- While I mostly order both rosu (loin) and hire (fillet) tonkatsu, for consistency, I will be only reviewing the loin. This is simply because my order preference is loin (mmm…fat)
- If your preference is hire, your meat score mileage may vary (though all other scores will still be relevant).
- When a restaurant has a particularly good hire, I will note it in the review.
- We are focusing on purely tonkatsu here, not service, ambiance or price. While I recognise that meals compose of than just the food quality, in order to accurately compare tonkatsu, that’s the only thing we should look at
Scoring
Meat (10)
The best tonkatsus always start with the meat. Some tonkatsu restaurants (eg. Narikura and Butagumi) go wild and source up to several different breeds of pork, all with slightly different flavour and fat profiles. Most just stick with one specialty breed. Either way, we are looking for clean pork flavour and good marbling throughout the meat.
When done right, great pork can have close to the same decadence and tenderness as Wagyu beef. That’s when you have reached tonkatsu meat perfection.
Batter (10)
While the star of the tonkatsu show is the meat, the panko batter is equally important. It’s the component that is generally underappreciated, but often sticks out like a sore thumb when it’s bad. Ethereally crisp and lack of oiliness is what we are looking for here.
While the selection of panko and choice of cooking oil (often high quality lard), this is where the skill of the chef come into play the most. The very best tonkatsu masters work with the same precision and skill as the very best tempura shoukinins.
Sides (3)
Technically speaking, the sides aren’t really “tonkatsu” but it’s still an important part of the overall tonkatsu food experience. After all, you probably consume equal amounts of pork and rice in a tonkatsu meal (also, I really appreciate good rice and think that rice alone can make or break a meal).
Cabbage salad, tonjiru (pork and miso soup) and tsukemono will also be covered under this rating.
Condiments/Sauce (2)
I’m of the opinion that great tonkatsu does not necessarily need condiments or sauce. Having said that, it can help cut through the heaviness of the tonkatsu as you progress through the meal. Bonus points for homemade sauce (provided it tastes good).
Some newer tonkatsu restaurants are also offering interesting condiments (think exotic salts and olive oil) to differentiate themselves and provide new tonkatsu tasting experiences. I’ve noted these down where applicable. I personally think some of these are a bit gimmicky, though I’ve always been a purists at heart.
Whatever side of the fence you sit on, for the love of Tonkatsu God, never apply your sauce directly on top of your whole tonkatsu. The work the chef has put into perfecting the crisp batter will be soggy by the time you eat the last few pieces. I recommend either dipping each piece as you eat it, or brushing a small amount of sauce on the meat side.
The Pursuit of Food Perfection 
Leave a comment