Shimbashi Shimizu, Tokyo

14/20

  8 | 2.5 | 1.5 | 2

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Thumbs up

• Excellent chef skill in preparing seafood that is not top quality
• Underrated by super foodies

Thumbs down

• Must speak Japanese or accompany someone who can speak Japanese to visit
• Inherit limitation on seafood that is not the top quality
• Overrated by hardcore sushi enthusiasts

Recommended dish(es)

• Hamaguri
• Awabi
• Hikarimono

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I don’t think there’s a need to delve too much into the romanticised “legend” that is Shimbashi Shimizu – if you ended up on this page, you’re here because it is a cult favourite for old school Edomae sushi, that chef Kunihiro Shimizu-san is revered by fellow sushi greats such as Takaaki Sugita and Yuichi Arai, and that you must be able to speak Japanese or be accompanied by someone who can to visit.

Shimbashi Shimizu has been open 24 years, and it’s taken me over half of that time to eventually make my way to his counter. Not through lack of trying though; I’ve been meaning to come to this legendary sushiya for the longest time but my meal slots usually get booked up way in advance to ever fit Shimizu in.

So how was the sushi? In one word – solid.

Nigiri was large, as expected from classic Edo style, with shari that was sour but less punchy and softer than expected. Some very good pieces but nothing mind blowing.

As always, the truth lies somewhere in the middle. Both overrated by hardcore sushi enthusiasts but underrated by super foodies. Many Shimizu fans claim that on pure skill he’s one of the best in Japan – and I would believe it. The neta that required skill to prepare, such as clams and hikarimono, were all excellent. Whether this is enough to offset the subpar sourcing of other neta is ultimately a personal choice.

I understand the appeal but based on my sushi preferences, I was never going to be a Shimizu lineage otaku. While the best skill can make good seafood taste excellent, if you’re looking for great or perfection, you’ll always ultimately be limited by the quality of your ingredient.

Somewhat decent value, great skill, relatively easy to reserve for locals. Perfect if I was local but not really for travellers searching for perfection with limited time. I’ll happily return but not in a rush.

Shimbashi Shimizu (新ばし しみづ)
2-15-10 Shinbashi Minato, Tokyo (map)
+81 3-3591-5763
https://tabelog.com/en/tokyo/A1301/A130103/13002892/

No photos of nigiri allowed (*highlight pieces) –

1. Tai
2. Sumiika
3. Akami*
4. Chutoro
5. Kohada
6. Akagai
7. Kasugo
8. Hamaguri*
9. Buri*
10. Kuruma Ebi
11. Uni
12. Anago
13. Owan
14. Tamago
15. Saba* (add-on)
16. Buri (add-on)
17. Kanpyomaki (add-on)
18. Ichigo

So fellow foodies, what’s your favourite traditional edomae sushiya?